What Alex Honnold can teach us about peak performance

I’ve spent a lot of time trying to crack the code of ultra-performance.

I do it by looping back through everything I’ve learned as a scientist and physiologist, and comparing that knowledge to everything I am learning from meeting and working with some of the highest-achieving people on the planet.

What I’ve observed is that elite performers are consistently able to access their full potential.

One of the best examples I can think of is Alex Honnold.

Honnold is the greatest free solo climber of all time. He has climbed some of the most challenging rock faces in the world without any safety equipment at all. No ropes. No harness. Just his shoes, a chalk bag, and his unprecedented physical, mental and emotional abilities.

On June 3, 2017, after nearly two years of meticulous preparation, Honnold accomplished what many argue is the greatest athletic feat of all time. In 3 hours and 56 minutes, he completed the first ever free solo ascent of El Capitan, a massive rock outcropping in Yosemite National Park in California. Not only that, he did it with a film crew tracking his every move.

The odyssey of Honnold’s preparation, including the climb itself, was captured in the Academy Award-winning documentary Free Solo by two of his close friends, wife and husband team Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin.

“I could go back down and do it again right now.”  

Soon after Honnold had arrived safely at the top, his friend and videographer Jimmy Chin had this to say:

“Alex’s process to prepare for his dream of free soloing El Cap has been an incredible, and sometimes stressful, journey to witness and be a part of . . . I expected (and prayed for) nothing less on his big day, but it was still mind bending to see how relaxed he was in the final days leading up to the climb and of course during the climb . . . When he got to the top, he looked at me and said, ‘I’m pretty sure I could go back to the bottom and do it again right now.’” 

The fact that Honnold found it only moderately challenging is fascinating.

In speeches he gave after the climb, he explained that his goal with the climb was total mastery. He wasn’t satisfied with simply making it to the top. He wanted to proceed in a way that meant he was never – at any moment – anything but confident and calm.

Prior to making the attempt, Honnold reached the point where he could recite, in order, every single micro movement he would make during the entire climb. Honnold’s preparation and unique temperament enabled him to make one of the greatest athletic accomplishments in history easy.

His story is consistent with great performers across various disciplines. They have an ability to stay relaxed while performing so they can access their true potential. They achieve this calm and peak performance by putting themselves in gamma mode. It is a state of intense brain activity, and it is one of the few states when the entire brain works together at once.

Accessing gamma mode is critical for you to achieve peak performance.


Want to learn more?

Check out my new book Rest Refocus Recharge! In the book I cover simple and innovative ways to fight fatigue, feel stronger and live better.

In a 24/7 world, it can be a real challenge to get proper rest and give your mind and body the opportunity to fully recharge. In my new book, I outline how small changes in the way you rest, refocus and recharge can help you improve your mental health, prevent illness and deliver optimal results. In high-performance athletic circles, “deliberate recovery” practices are the secret weapon of the very best. But you don’t have to be an elite athlete to benefit from these strategies. Rest Refocus Recharge offers simple and practical techniques that you can easily incorporate into your existing routine, including:

Rest and sleep

Relax and create

Reflect and learn

Recharge and focus

Regenerate and perform

Let me know what you think about this article and the new book in the comments section below!

Greg Wells PhD

For Dr. Greg Wells, health and performance, particularly under extreme conditions, are personal and professional obsessions. As a scientist and physiologist, he has dedicated his career to making the science of human limits understandable and actionable. Dr. Wells has spoken to audiences all over the world at events such as TEDx and The Titan Summit, where he has shared the stage with Robin Sharma, Richard Branson, Steve Wozniak and Deepak Chopra.

For over 25 years, Dr. Wells has worked with some of the highest-performing individuals on the planet, including Olympic and World champions, and with organizations ranging from General Electric to BMO, Deloitte, KPMG, BMW, Audi, Sysco Foods, YPO and Air Canada. He is also committed to inspiring children and young adults through his close working relationship with school boards and independent schools.

A veteran endurance athlete, Dr. Wells has participated in the grueling Nanisivik Marathon 600 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Ironman Canada and the Tour D’Afrique, an 11,000 km cycling race that is the longest in the world. He is also a travel and expedition adventurer who has journeyed through every imaginable terrain and conditions in over 50 countries around the world.

Dr. Wells is author of three best-selling books – Superbodies, The Ripple Effect, and The Focus Effect – and hosted the award-winning Superbodies series, which aired on Olympic broadcasts worldwide in 2010 and 2012.

Dr. Wells has a PhD in Physiology, served as an Associate Professor of Kinesiology at the University of Toronto and is an exercise medicine researcher at the Hospital for Sick Children in Toronto.

He is the CEO and founder of The Wells Group, a global consulting firm committed to achieving the moonshot of helping teams, schools and businesses become places where people get healthy, perform optimally and ultimately - reach their potential.

http://www.drgregwells.com
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